This chicken ranks high

Country Captain is a mild curried chicken dish dating back to the mid 1800s that probably originated with ship captains who brought spices to America. Some ingredients are included in all variations - chicken, tomato, onion and curry powder - while other recipes also include nuts, raisins, bacon, ginger, coconut, mango and many more. The finished dish is almost always served over rice and along with several garnishes.

Many older recipes called for a whole chicken, but we prefer bone-in thighs for their superior flavor and juicy, tender texture. For our usual 4 to 6 servings, we went with 8 pieces. We experimented with browning the pieces seasoned, dredged in flour and seasoned, and not browning them at all. The winner was the well seasoned, browned chicken - the flour made the resulting sauce slightly muddy and pasty.

Onions are a key ingredient, so we tried them sliced and diced, and preferred 1/4-inch diced. The onion is softened with the other aromatic vegetables at the start of our recipe. Bell pepper is another of the essential ingredients, and red was our preference for its sweet flavor. As with the onion, it was chopped to a 1/4-inch dice and softened. Cooked celery was tested and rejected, but we settled on 3 medium-sized cloves of garlic that are pressed or minced for best flavor. Fresh ginger was overpowering, so we omitted it, even though most recipes call for it.

As for spices, we added curry powder in increments of 1/2 teaspoons searching for just the right intensity. In the end, we settled on 1 tablespoon, which added plenty of punch without becoming overpowering. To fortify the curry flavor and add another layer of spice, we added 1 tablespoon of sweet paprika. The paprika is velvety and warm and underscores the exotic quality of the curry. For added heat, you may also add cayenne to suit your taste. Thyme was often used in this recipe and we approve, along with a couple of bay leaves and 1/4 cup of chopped parsley to finish.

Tomato lends bright flavor, which is a perfect counterpoint to the deep flavor of the spices in our Country Captain. One 14-1/2-ounce can diced tomato proved to be perfect in terms of texture, flavor and moisture.

We wanted the chicken to braise until very moist and tender. To that end, we tried adding water, wine, vermouth and chicken broth. The water was too bland and the booze was definitely out of place. The chicken broth carried the flavors nicely.

We found versions of this recipe that called for both chutney and fresh mango. We tested both and had a strong preference for the latter. Where the chutney was heavy and sweet, the fresh mango was light and bright. When the mango is cooked in the sauce it is not nearly as sweet as raw. Other ingredients included 1/2 cup of raisins; we skipped the coconut; apples were a nice garnish but awful when added to the pot; and, for garnishes, we preferred scallions, almonds and the apple. Serve them in small bowls, allowing diners to pick and choose.

COUNTRY CAPTAIN CHICKEN

Serve this dish over white rice along with a scallions, slivered almonds and/or fresh apple. You may prepare this dish up to a couple of days ahead of time. Reheat gently over low heat until hot.

INGREDIENTS:

8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil

1 large onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice

3 medium garlic cloves, pressed or minced

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 tablespoon sweet paprika

1/8 teaspoon cayenne or to taste

1 cup low sodium chicken broth

1 14-1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes

2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried

2 bay leaves

1/2 cup raisins

1 medium mango cut into 1/2-inch dice

4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

DIRECTIONS:

Liberally season chicken with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottom Dutch oven over medium high heat. Brown chicken (in batches if necessary) until well browned on both sides, about 8 to 10 minutes per batch. Transfer to a large plate.

Pour off all but one tablespoon of fat from pot, adjust heat to medium and add onions and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, curry, paprika and cayenne and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add chicken stock and scrape bottom of pan to release browned bits. Add tomatoes, thyme, bay, raisins and mango, stir to mix, and bring to a boil. Add the chicken along with accumulated juices and push chicken down into the sauce. Adjust heat to maintain a simmer, cover and cook for 15 minutes. Turn chicken pieces, cover and cook until chicken is very tender, about 20 minutes longer. Discard bay, correct seasoning with salt and pepper if needed, add parsley, stir and serve.

Serves 4 to 6.

Contact Christopher Kimball at kitchendetective@bcpress.com.