My objective with this column is to help readers find great wines and save money in the process. For smart wine shoppers, wines from Spain are excellent and a great value.
Why Spain? There are several reasons.
As the world's third-largest national producer of wine, Spain has a wine history similar to other Old World countries that goes back over 1,000 years. In fact, Spain has more vineyard land under cultivation than any other country. Most of these grapes are, however, of average quality from the Airen grape and are used to make brandy.
Fortunately, Spain also has a history of quality wines, helped along by French winemakers in the late 1800s. Vintners came south to lend their expertise to Iberian wineries after their beloved French vineyards were decimated by the phylloxera louse. The Rioja region of Spain was the primary beneficiary, leading to the popularity and fine reputation of Rioja wines today.
Unlike many French, Californian and Italian wines, most Spanish wines are relatively unknown and, therefore, cannot command the high prices of those others. Besides Rioja, do Bierzo, La Mancha, Montsant, Priorat, Rias Baixas, Ribera del Duero and Toro sound familiar? They should, mainly because they provide terrific wines at bargain prices.
An avid fan of Spanish wine, I attended a tasting of wines imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners, owned by the late Robert Mondavi's son, Michael. Having a bit of time and a bundle of money after Robert Mondavi Winery was sold in 2004, he established Folio to bring one-of-a-kind wines at a variety of price points to American consumers. Based on the wines I tasted, they surely do that.
Hosted by Fifth Ave Liquors and Metro 9 Steak House, the tasting started with a 2006 Fillaboa Albarino ($17) from Rias Baixas, located just north of Portugal. Albarino is an elegant, aromatic grape that makes tasty crisp, white wine. With a lemony citrus aroma, it's a great choice for fish and other seafood.
Spain is best known for good to great red wines, and the reds tasted fit that profile. My favorites were the 2004 Comenge ($30), a 100 percent tempranillo from Ribera del Duero; the excellent 2004 Mas de l'Abundancia Fluminis ($30) from Montsant; and the heavenly 2004 Embruix ($37) from Vall Llach in Priorat.
The Comenge offered mild, but pleasant fruit and, although a tad tannic, it will smooth out with a little time. It's drinkable now, but should be delectable in 24 months or so. Fluminis, a blend of garnacha, carinena and cabernet sauvignon, featured nice fruit flavor and was elegant, delicious and superbly balanced.
